Just south-west of Kyoto Station, tucked into the old Umekoji rail yards, sits one of the nicest railway museums I've ever set foot in. The Kyoto Railway Museum (京都鉄道博物館) opened in its current, expanded form on 29 April 2016, built around the bones of the much older Umekoji

Dinner at Kyoto Umekoji Kadensho, under head chef Toru Washizuka, followed a familiar Kyoto pattern: seasonal ingredients, restrained execution, and a deliberate progression from light to rich and back again. The menu sits somewhere between traditional kaiseki and a slightly more approachable obanzai-style format, with a few modern touches woven